Monochrome Watches
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First Look

The Zenith Chronomaster Original Dons a Handsome Blue Dial

The successor of the iconic A386 El Primero with a souped-up engine is back with an attractive midnight blue dial.

calendarCreated with Sketch. | ic_dehaze_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. By Rebecca Doulton | ic_query_builder_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. 3 min read |

The year 1969 marked a before and after in watchmaking with the release of the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. Zenith’s El Primero calibre, a high-frequency integrated chronograph, was the first to cross the finish line. Initially used to power three models, the round A386, with its tri-colour counters, became the undisputed brand icon. In addition to the anniversary Revival models and the contemporary Chronomaster Sport, in 2021, Zenith released the true successor to the A386 with the Chronomaster Original. A winning combination of vintage touches and modern performance, the compact 38mm case and tricolour sub-dials replicate the proportions and style of the original while its movement ticks to the hi-beat of the latest-generation El Primero (3600). Expanding the collection, Zenith introduces the first blue dial version of the Chronomaster Original.

Earlier this year, Zenith introduced a trilogy of blue ceramic chronographs to commemorate its 160th anniversary. The new Chronomaster Original follows suit and reappears with the brand’s signature blue colour on the dial, offsetting the tricolour counters. A particularly handsome combination, the midnight blue dial echoes the blue peripheral scale, the frame of the date window, and the date disc. The slightly overlapping blue, grey and silver counters are snailed, contrasting with the sunray-brushed blue dial. The vintage fonts and logos capture those used on the original, as do the applied, faceted and lumed hour markers, the trapezoid date window at 4:30, the double scale on the periphery, the white baton hands with black inserts and lume, and the bright red central chronograph seconds hand.

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However, the more powerful and precision-oriented El Primero 3600 calibre means that there are tangible differences between the original and its successor. Taking advantage of its 5Hz frequency, the Chronomaster Original can record timings of 1/10th of a second as its red central chronograph seconds hand races around the dial every 10 seconds. The original tachymeter scale is replaced by a precision scale of 1/10th of a second on the periphery.

The high-frequency movement also affects the information in the sub-dials, which are all calibrated to 60. The small seconds indicator is in the light grey sub-dial at 9 o’clock, the 60-minute counter is in the dark grey sub-dial at 6 o’clock, and 60-second elapsed times are recorded in the blue sub-dial at 3 o’clock.

Using digital scans of the 1969 model, the round stainless steel case emulates the 38mm diameter of its ancestor and features a sloping profile, sharp faceted lugs, pump-style pushers and a mix of radial-brushed and polished surfaces. Like the original, the bezel is extremely thin. Contemporary touches include the domed sapphire crystal over the dial and the sapphire crystal on the caseback. The thickness of the case is 12.9mm, although 1.5mm of this measurement can be attributed to the domed sapphire crystal.

Visible on the caseback with its 12-sided bezel, the El Primero 3600 retains the column wheel and horizontal coupling of the original but delivers a more generous 60-hour supply of power and a stop-seconds function. The openworked rotor with its five-pointed star provides a view of the more technical and contemporary movement with its blue column wheel and openworked bridges.

This attractive new Chronomaster Original is delivered with a 3-link stainless steel bracelet and a blue calfskin strap, each secured with a folding clasp. It retails for CHF 9,900, EUR 10,400 or USD 10,300. More information at zenith-watches.com.

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5 responses

  1. I love both this and the white dialed version, yet noticed the price increase from $8400 to $10300 in two years. That is an expensive dial color change.

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  2. May I suggest to Monochrome’s team to use “Highs, Lows and Verdict” where the watch reviewer lists 3 lows, 3 highs (with big font in the middle of the article) and the verdict at the end, also big font.

    See Car&Driver’s car reviews. Really helpful.

    Thanks in advance.

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  3. @OBE – this is something we’re certainly willing to do, whenever possible. For instance, this article (and many others) is marked as a “first look” which means that we only had a few minutes with the watch, and the person who’s writing isn’t necessarily the same as the one who photographed the watch – which is precisely the case here. This would be far from objective to have pros and cons, as the writer didn’t have the watch in his hands, or barely long enough to make a proper judgment. Whenever we have the chance to spend enough time with a watch (meaning a day or two), we should be able to have such pros and cons. Hope you understand our position.

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  4. Zenith used to put the date wheel for these watches at 6:00, I wish they would return to that far more elegant positioning.

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