The Voutilainen 28 Kohan, a Singular Fusion of Swiss Craft and Japanese Art

When it comes to modern independent watchmaking at its highest level, few names stand out like Kari Voutilainen. Renowned for blending classical Swiss horology with meticulous hand-finishing and artistic expression, Voutilainen’s workshop produces some of the world’s most coveted time-only watches, none more so than his Vingt-8 and 28 series. But then come proper métiers d’art, making these watches even more impressive, just like the Voutilainen 28 Kohan, the brand’s latest artistic creation. It’s a unique piece, it’s already sold but let us share it with you for the sake of horological pleasure. 

The Voutilainen 28 Kohan is an exceptional one-off commission for a private Finnish collector, a piece that fuses Switzerland’s finest handmade watchmaking with the ancient Japanese crafts of urushi lacquer and maki-e. For this, Kari collaborated with Kitamura Studio, led by master lacquer artist Tatsuo Kitamura, a guardian of time-honoured techniques using only natural materials. The watch is also a deeply personal tribute: a token of love for the collector’s partner and a celebration of Finland and the country´s nature.

The Voutilainen 28 Kohan’s case is crafted in-house from white gold, sized at a classic 37mm. Voutilainen’s signature teardrop lugs flow smoothly from the mid-case, while the slim bezel keeps full focus on the dial’s artistry. The fluted crown is set with a granite stone, adding another subtle nod to Finland. A hinged protective cover features delicate hand-engraving and enamel on the outside, depicting Coccinella Septempunctata ladybugs on a birch leaf, another tribute to Finnish nature. Inside, an exquisite scene of two Holly Blue butterflies feeding on Lily of the Valley flowers is showcased, all handmade in mother-of-pearl and urushi by Kitamura’s studio.

The dial is where the 28 Kohan becomes truly breathtaking. Inspired by the Finnish Lake Saimaa in autumn (“Kohan” means lakeside in Japanese), the scene presents a tranquil lakeside view that changes with the light. Dozens of tiny shell fragments, cut from green turban and abalone, are carefully selected for their colour and shimmer, then combined with layers of fine gold, platinum leaf and coloured lacquer. These elements are set into multiple urushi layers, polished and built up like a mille-feuille to create rich depth and texture. In light, the dial transforms into a picture with a vivid blue sky with clouds drifting above the shimmering water; in shadow, it deepens into a calm night scene with a faint glow on the lake’s surface, an effect created by the technique the artist chooses to keep secret. The changing scenery mirrors nature’s fleeting beauty, captured forever on the wrist.

Inside is Voutilainen’s in-house Calibre 218RSV (cal.28), fully hand-finished and made in his atelier. It beats at 18,000 vibrations/hour with an oversized 13.5?mm balance wheel and features his patented direct impulse escapement, delivering superior energy transfer and stability. In a rare artistic touch, the main bridge is decorated with urushi lacquer to echo the dial’s lakeside motif, a detail almost unheard of in a mechanical movement. A curious detail is the power reserve indicator shaped like the Vichy water bottle.

The view through the sapphire back reveals traditional haute horlogerie decoration, including black-polished steel parts, sharp anglage, wide Geneva stripes, and immaculate jewel sinks. The finishing is all done by hand, using classic tools and methods that few watchmakers still master today.

A singular creation in every sense, the Voutilainen 28 Kohan is a reminder of what makes independent watchmaking so compelling: the freedom to create something that is at once mechanical, artistic and deeply personal, and to do so at a level few brands, big or small, can match. For more details, visit voutilainen.ch.