Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The New Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Black Onyx and Burgundy
Gérald Genta’s exuberant sea urchin reinterpreted in gold with punky spikes or smooth studs.
Regarded as the most influential 20th-century watch designer and a key figure in the revival of mechanical watchmaking, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is the name behind countless icons that still hold sway today. In 2023, Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) haute horlogerie division announced the return of Gérald Genta as a standalone brand. Overseen by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, some of Gérald Genta’s most surprising creations are enjoying a second lease of life. The first Gérald Genta collection to emerge from LFT was the Gentissima Oursin (sea urchin), a trilogy inspired by a wonderful model created by the maestro in 1994. Joining the collection are the new Oursin 36 Burgundy and the Oursin 36 Black Onyx references.
Gérald Genta’s inspiration for the Oursin came from the sea urchins he sketched on holiday in Corsica in 1994. His first Oursin models recreated the sea urchin’s shell with a convex-shaped case, and its spikes were interpreted with gold beads and gemstones, often extending to the central link of the bracelet. Following LFT’s inaugural trilogy and the flaming orange Oursin Fire Opal, the brand releases two new iterations with radically different personalities.
Presented in 36.5mm diameter cases with a thickness of 9.6mm, both models are powered by an automatic Zenith GG-005 Elite movement. The octagonal gold rotor, specially designed for this model by LFT, features a series of applied gold studs to match the case. The movement runs at 28,800 beats per hour, and the power reserve is 50 hours.
Recreating the rounded shell of a sea urchin, the yellow gold case of the Black Onyx model has a doughnut-shaped bezel. The glass-blasted matte base contrasts with the 223 hand-screwed yellow gold spikes, which are polished and taper in size as they reach the dial. Even the crown, with its black onyx insert, has polished spikes. The sleek black onyx dial has 12 gold spiked hour markers and a matte black minutes track with 5-minute markers. As a designer who favoured octagonal elements, the dial is protected by a faceted sapphire crystal with eight planes. The edgy, punky vibe of the watch continues to the black leather Bund-style strap.
The rose gold Oursin Burgundy also has a matte, grained glass-blasted case but is hand-set with 223 polished rose gold beads, including the crown. The rich red dial is decorated with a subtle eight-sided scalloped guilloché pattern. For contrast, the dot-shaped hour and minute markers are printed with white Super-LumiNova, matching that of the rose gold hands. The watch is paired with a burgundy calfskin leather strap.
Both watches will be available in October 2025. The Gentissima Oursin Black Onyx retails for CHF 29,000, the Gentissima Oursin Burgundy for CHF 27,000, both prices excluding taxes. More information at geraldgenta.com.
