The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM, A 1960s Design Icon Reimagined

The year 1969 is etched in Zenith’s history as the birth of El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre. It was also the debut year of the Defy, a rugged sports watch nicknamed the “vault” for its robust construction and avant-garde angular design. Over the past few years, Zenith has revisited these late-1960s designs with very faithful Revival editions, recreating the original proportions and details. Now, for the first time, the Defy Revival case houses a chronograph movement. In collaboration with fellow Swiss design icon USM Modular Furniture, Zenith introduces the Defy Chronograph USM, a capsule collection that celebrates two parallel 1960s success stories in horology and industrial design.

The case is pure Defy Revival, measuring a compact 37mm across with the same sharply faceted octagonal mid-case and distinctive 14-sided bezel. Brushed surfaces alternate with polished bevels, emphasising the geometry that made the original such a radical design in 1969. The screw-down crown and 100m water-resistance underscore the Defy´s reputation as a robust tool watch, while vintage-style pump pushers do not disturb the silhouette; quite the contrary. Completing the historically accurate package is the Gay Frères–designed “ladder” bracelet, reproduced in stainless steel for this edition, a detail that roots the watch firmly in Zenith’s late-1960s design codes.

The dials are where the collaboration with USM becomes immediately evident. Four editions are available, finished in the company’s signature colours: Gentian Blue, Golden Yellow, Pure Orange and USM Green. Applied square hour markers with grooved surfaces enhance the architectural impression, while rhodium-plated hands filled with Super-LumiNova ensure legibility. The overlapping silvered chronograph counters, 30-minute at 3 o’clock, 12-hour at 6 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock, are decorated with a fine azuré pattern. A date window sits between 4 and 5 o’clock. Playful details include the central chronograph seconds hand tipped with a miniature USM ball joint, filled with luminous material.

The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM series is powered by the El Primero 400, a direct descendant of the 1969 calibre 3019 PHC. With its 5Hz (36,000vph) frequency, column-wheel architecture and 55-hour power reserve, it remains one of the most precise and celebrated automatic chronographs. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the rotor carries Zenith’s openworked star motif alongside the Zenith and USM logos, underscoring the fusion of horology and industrial design.

Each Defy Chronograph USM is delivered in a custom-designed USM Haller timepiece chest, further linking the capsule collection to its architectural inspiration. Priced at CHF 10,900, each colourway is limited to just 60 examples.

For more information, please visit Zenith-watches.com.